Why Whole Foods Isn't the Solution - Part I

The meat that Whole Foods, Trader Joe's, and other more progressive grocery stores sell is raised using higher standards than the cheaper meat found at conventional grocery stores. Just as an example, Whole Foods sells grass-fed beef that is certified at GAP Step 5. GAP stands for Global Animal Partnership, and step 5 is the highest level of certification they offer for humane, safe farming practices.

Last year, I attended a meeting for beef farmers with representatives from Whole Foods. They wanted to start sourcing grass-fed beef locally for their stores in the midwest. They explained that they would only buy grass-fed beef from GAP Step 5 certified farms, of which there were none in the audience. At the end of the meeting, the consensus among farmers seemed to be, "that's never going to work here," because the amount of animals that Whole Foods wanted to buy on a regular basis far surpassed the number of grass-fed beef cattle in the entire state. Also, the requirements for GAP Step 5 certification were too daunting, and the buying/selling price was too modest.

To be GAP Step 5 certified, beef farmers must raise all cattle from birth so that they live their whole lives on only one farm. They must have breeding programs in place that select for cows and heifers that can birth their calves without assistance; no more than 5% of calvings each year can be assisted. Any and all use of antibiotics (i.e. if the animal comes down with a severe case of pink eye) is prohibited; if an animal is given antibiotics, that animal can no longer be sold at GAP Step 5 certified beef. The full requirements are explained on the Global Animal Partnership website. Of course, detailed records must be kept on everything and farms must undergo audits.

All the Gap Step 5 standards are admirable, and I strongly support the mission of Global Animal Partnership. However, it is not realistic to expect small farmers to raise animals in accordance with these standards and to keep detailed documentation on almost every aspect of their animal management. Large farms with paid staff are much better equipped to handle the record-keeping required for certification and can leverage economies of scale to fund and manage both cow-calf operations (breeding, birthing, weaning) and beef finishing operations (fattening cattle on pasture and/or grain). Small farms often only have one or two people working there, and they simply cannot handle all the tasks involved in calf-to-finish operations.

If people want to support local, sustainable farmers, then shopping exclusively at Whole Foods (or any grocery store) is not the answer. The meat may be raised in accordance with very high standards, but it's still part of the agroindustrial complex. There is no substitute for picking a farmer to raise your meat. Certification is a poor substitute for knowing your farmer, visiting the farm, and seeing for yourself how the animals are raised.

Don't know how to find a local farmer who raises meat according to your principles? Check out the website for my consulting business, Sustainable Food Solutions (SFS). I can help connect you with farmers.